Side Markers aka Dots, Lined vs. Unlined Fingerboards

[FretLessSince68]

The unfortunate fact is that a lot of bass makers just don't get fretless. To them, fretless is just a fretted bass without frets.

Huge Error!!!! Clang Clang There are many differences between a fretted bass and a fretless. Fingerboard side markers and lined vs. unlined are two of them.

Too many fretless bass fingerboards are created exactly like a fretted version except the fret slots have been filled with a contrasting wood or other material instead of a metal fret. This means that the side markers (dots) are usually placed in the same locations as fretted necks. Top markers are in the same places too but I don't care about those, I just ignore them. Side markers are different, I find them very useful and they help me achieve good pitch control (intonation).

Side markers located in between fret slots work fine for the player who prefers a lined fingerboard and never plays in subdued lighting. When the lights go out you often can't see the position lines on a lined board. To get a note on pitch I use the side markers to help me avoid an embarrassing intonation problem. If your side markers are located in between positions as for a fretted bass, and your fret lines are hard to see, those side markers are almost useless. On the other hand, if your side markers are properly placed exactly on the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th and 12th, etc. positions (actually marking the locations of the overtone series (harmonics)) all you have to do is put your finger where the side dot is and you are at the proper location for a note. Yay, I have good pitch control!

If you have a lined fingerboard with side markers in between positions (ala fretted bass) I offer a simple solution below.

Of course an unlined fingerboard obviously needs side markers in the exactly correct positions. I suppose there are a few intrepid players who eschew all markers. More power to them, however I like side markers.

Another crazy thing I have seen on some unlined fretless fingerboards is side markers all correctly placed except at the 12th position (1st harmonic). On one of these necks the two 12th position side markers are on each side of the 12th position equally spaced from it by some arbitrary distance having nothing to do with musical intervals. With this scheme the player is expected to interpolate where the actual 12th position is by splitting the distance. This is OK for finding the 12th position but there is a greater problem that is the heart of my dislike for this marker scheme. The 11th and 13th position have these dots near them but have no actual relationship to those positions. If you see one of these necks, try playing in Ab at the 11th position, or Bb at the 13th position. It's darn hard to be on pitch if you use those dots as reference because they are just plain wrong in my opinion. One can get used to this scheme after a while but why not have it right from the beginning. The correct placement of side markers for the 12th position is actually two markers, one each at the 11th, and 12th positions. Same for the 24th position if your neck extends that far.

Some fretless players think of a lined fingerboard similarly to the way we think about training wheels on a bicycle. They help one get started but soon become an impediment to freedom. Other players need those lines and would be lost on an unlined board. There is plenty of room for both camps, the important thing is to play the fretless bass and enjoy the freedom and TONE.

If you are playing a six or seven string bass and like to do a lot of high register soloing, then I think a lined fingerboard is a good idea. On the other hand, if the instrument is a four or five string instrument and your playing is more in the traditional role of the bassist I much prefer an unlined board.

Lined, or unlined, really gets close to the fretted or fretless concept. The lines are really pseudo frets, there to aid one in knowing where the notes are. Personally, I think the lines detract not only from the appearance of a fretless bass, but also from the "vibe". The entire point of fretless is to be liberated from metal bars across the fingerboard telling us where to play and limiting what we have to say. The lines are, in my opinion, a vestige of fretted lutherie.

The upright bass is a violin, electric bass comes from the upright heritage. The upright bass has no frets, and no fret lines. So if the fretless player wants to pursue that direction then unlined is better.

The electric bass is one of the newest instruments having been invented about 1948. Since it is very recent by musical history standards, there are still many developments occurring in it's design, fretless among them. So too 6, 7, and more strings have appeared recently. If you are a trend setter and musical explorer then a lined fingerboard might be better suited.

Lined or unlined has to be a personal choice. It does take a bit more skill to play unlined and your side markers had better be properly placed.

Here is my solution to remedy basses with side markers in the wrong places. Paint over the existing side markers and create new ones in the proper places. The right way to do this from a luthiers point of view would be to drill out the old markers, fill the holes, install new markers using side marker sticks, refinish. This suggestion is for those of us who just want to experiment or save some money and work.

Buy two small paint colors such as are sold at hobby shops. The first should be a close match to the wood that your existing side markers are in. The second color is for your new side markers, I used white.

This is reversible should you change your mind, just scrape the new paint off with your thumb nail. Don't use a brush to make these new markers, too messy. If your instrument is very valuable perhaps it would be wise not to do this, however I did it to my Alembic 6 string fretless (lined), and a Yamaha TRB 6II (lined) and it was a big improvement (for me).

Make an implement to put a dot of paint over your existing side dots. Make it about the same diameter as those existing dots. I used a nail with the point ground to flat. Put a small amount of wood colored paint on a piece of cardboard or other suitable material.

Have a clean rag on hand to wipe the dot off if you make a mistake. Try to position your bass so that the side markers are facing the ceiling (up). This will avoid runs and sags. Use just enough paint to do the job. Experiment with your painting implement to get the paint loading right for the dot you are creating.

Dip the painting implement once in the paint and apply a dot covering an existing side marker. I found it easier to start high on the neck and move towards the nut. Cover all of the existing side markers with wood tone paint covering only enough to do the job.

Now it's time to put on the new side markers. If your neck is a lined fretless the layout work is already done, just use the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, and 12th, etc lines as your guide. If you have an unlined board and your existing markers are in the wrong places I would use a fretted bass of the same scale length as a guide and transfer those positions over to the fretless. Another method would be to buy a fret layout ruler from Stewart MacDonald.

Put a small amount of the paint you purchased for your new side markers on a piece of cardboard. Using the same (cleaned) painting implement, dip it once into the paint and apply a dot in the new positions. Repeat until done.

Another thing you can do is put a coat of photo-luminescent paint over your white dots. This requires more than one layer to be effective but having glowing side dots is a big plus. The main drawback is that the new dots now become slight bumps. The photo-luminescent paint may require a clear coat dot due to it's rough texture. Depends on the concentration of photoluminescent cyrstals vs. the paint base. I did this to three basses and it's very nice to see where your positions are in the dark. Very cool, and inexpensive.

In use I find that my left thumb rarely contacts these painted on dots as my thumb is usually behind the neck and not around it.

[Rando]

On one of my defretted basses, with the filler material not visible as a line, I painted little square dots on the player's side at the end of the old fret slot, only visible to me. White nail polish was what I used, and it's really held up well. I've noticed that you can't really see lines on the fingerboard unless you're really hunched over the bass. So why have anything other than edge markers visible only to the player? A landmark for a quick glance now and then is all you need. I've also made little white stickers with a hole punch for side markers.

[RichmanRush]

Great thread!

I suppose it's a cheap way for them to make the fretless, but I agree that they should focus the extra effort and do it right.

I did however hear of a tip, and I want to say it was from Jeroen Thesseling, that he puts small glow-in-the-dark stickers on his side dot markers so if the stage lighting is dark, he can still see where his side dots are. I thought that was a neat idea. I may give that a try in the future and see how it works.

[jaydee]

I used during 20 years fretless basses with white dots on the fingerboard' edge where we put fingers.
I have bought a Squier VM with fret lines and white dots between these lines.
I use now 2 basses with fret lines and it's well to play in tune and mostly for the hight notes and chords.

[NewFret]

Great thread! I just bought my first fretless bass (1988 Peavey Foundation FL) and the fret side markers blend in with the rosewood making it near impossible to see except in the brightest light. I marked the fret location using white acrylic paint and the end of a tooth pick to keep the line narrow. I like the idea of the glo paint to go over them and I will do that once I see how the acrylic paint holds up.

I went a step further and put a "V" on the 5th fret position, a "7" and an "X" at the corresponding positions. This being my first fretless, I don't care if it's not "macho" to the die-hard fretless players, it works for me as a newbie.!