what would be the best fretless bass to buy, i hav up to £300, but could go a little over that
thnx very much
buying a fretless
That is a difficult question to answer. Do you play bass now? If so, what kind of bass do you own? You could get a fretless version of your fretted model. What are you looking for in an instrument? Do you just want something to knock about on, or do you have other goals?
Kevin Johnson
Frets are over-rated
Frets are over-rated
-
serverdown25
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 11:32 am
fretless bass
i do play bass at the moment, i hav a shine active fretted bas(which is o.k) and i am borowing a manhatten fretless bass off a friend, this fretless isnt so good but i hav begn to like fretless basses. i just want a descent sounding bass.
Re: fretless bass
Hi,serverdown25 wrote:i do play bass at the moment, i hav a shine active fretted bas(which is o.k) and i am borowing a manhatten fretless bass off a friend, this fretless isnt so good but i hav begn to like fretless basses. i just want a descent sounding bass.
I've just got into fretless myself a couple of months ago. It's a blast!
If you're on a limited budget then E-bay is a good way to go. I just picked up a Yamaha rbx 270f for 165.00 that was in mint condition. I replaced the stock Yamaha Pickups with DiMarzio DP126 P+J pickups so I've ended up a with a pretty decent bass for less than $270.00. I had thought about going for a used Fender Jazz but they were selling for a bit more than I wanted to pay.
I've found TalkBass (http://www.talkbass.com/) is a good place to do research. See what's available on e-bay and then search for discussion threads about the basses that interest you. That's how I decided to go with the Yamaha.
Evert
-
serverdown25
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 11:32 am
-
FretLessSince68
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:29 am
- Location: On an Island, WA, USA
Here are some tips to help you find a good bass at the store or used from an individual.
If you buy from an online source you will not get an opportunity for personal inspection. Having said that, I have purchased some very nice instruments via eBay and it has worked out well. Just keep in mind that eBay sourced instruments often have some minor problems. I have the skills to fix most problems so it is not a big risk for me. If you don't have those skills you might end up having to take the eBay bass to a luthier for adjustments or repair. You may still get a great deal but it won't be quite as good had you received one not needing any work.
I don't want to discourage eBay purchases, I buy via eBay. Just be aware that it is possible to buy someone Else's problem.
A used bass with quality parts is the way to get good value.
If possible, get a used bass that includes a hard case. That will be a big savings.
Body - Tone woods are a personal choice, Alder, Ash, Mahogany, Maple, are all good. Each has a different sound so you need to study and gain some experience. Exotic woods are nice too but are probably beyond the budget. Avoid plywood bodies, if you can't get a description of the wood(s) in the body, pass, it might be plywood under a thick layer of finish. Basswood and Poplar are preferred by some players but are too soft, in my opinion. Tonewoods is not a science, some will sound great, others not.
Electronics Quality is important. I like Bartolini P/U's, but if you like the lo-fi vintage sound most will be OK as it is in the higher frequencies that the more expensive P/U's excel.
I think that a pickup in the bridge position is important.
The John East Retro preamp is fantastic for fretless. Essential if you can afford it.
It's all about the neck!!!! If a bass has a good neck, that's a huge plus. The neck needs to be capable of adjusting to almost, or even actually straight. Too much relief equals no Mwah. When you audition a bass be sure to pay particular attention to the neck. The first thing to check is the relief, press a string down at the first position (equivalent to 1st fret) and also and the highest position. The depressed string is a straight line and the fingerboard is usually somewhat curved (relief). In the middle of the span will be an area of maximum gap, this is where you measure the relief. If relief is excessive a couple of things need to be checked: A. Will the tension rod(s) allow this neck to be adjusted for less relief. B. Is there a problem with this neck that caused someone to leave it in this maladjusted condition. I would not pay good money for a bass with excessive relief until it has been adjusted to be almost flat and the neck checks out OK in other respects. Check the straightness of the fingerboard. A precision straightedge is the best tool but your eyes can reveal major problems. Sight down the fingerboard and look for problems such as an uneven curve in the relief, an "S" bend (bad), high spots. If the fingerboard is uncoated minor defects can be corrected but if it's coated then the repair will destroy the coating requiring a re-coat. A properly set-up fretless bass should be easy to play in terms of the amount of mechanical force needed to get a note.
There is a lot of force put on the neck from string tension, narrow and/or slim profile necks tend to acquire/develop more problems than solidly built "hefty" necks. Just because a neck is built strongly does not mean it is not an elegant, fast, and smooth playing neck. Just be very careful to fully inspect any bass with a narrow nut AND a slim profile.
Ergonomics - One thing that might extend the period of time that you remain in love with your new bass is to make sure it conforms to the ergonomic dimensions you prefer.
For me, it's the string spacing at the bridge, and scale length. I like 19mm (3/4") string spacing, and a 889mm (35 inch) scale length vs. 864mm (34 inch) for Fender.
The 19mm string spacing is the standard Fender four string dimension, this spacing enables consistent right hand technique. If you what to slap this is very important. Six string basses are difficult to obtain with this width bridge, however the 90's vintage made in Japan Yamaha TRB 6II has both 19mm spacing and 889mm scale.
The 34 inch (864mm) Fender compatible scale length is the standard of the industry. This is a good scale, I prefer the longer 35 inch (889mm) scale because it has greater string tension which equates to more timbre from the string, so it's about tone. Low B strings especially benefit from the longer scale. In my opinion, short scale basses are not a good thing, although some people love them. Alembic has made the short (or medium) scale instrument one of their special lines.
A third important dimension (and more personal) is the width at the nut. Personally, I like a wide nut. I don't have big hands so it's not totally an ergonomic issue, a wide nut provides more wood at the weakest portion of the neck, transfers vibration better and (IMO) helps with solid tone.
Hang balance is important too, a neck heavy instrument gets old quickly. It is important that you try out your prospective bass with a strap while standing. Take your left hand away from the neck, if the headstock dives for the floor, it would be a good idea to look at other basses.
Before you pay your money, be sure that the ergonomics of the prospective bass will suit you for years. If not, then the quest for a great bass continues.
Strings - Strings for the 34 inch scale are less expensive and easier to obtain. I like a string that provides a complex character with lots of overtones. You can always cut the overtones out with EQ, but they can't be added if they are not there in the first place.
Roundwounds (I like nickle) are great if you have a fingerboard impervious to damage. If the fingerboard is wood I would go with a groundwound, pressurewound, or flats to preserve the wood.
RotoSound 77's , GHS Brite Flats, D'Addario Half Rounds, are all good (IMHO).
LaBella makes a nice flatwound.
Lots of good info on bass strings here: http://www.juststrings.com/electricbassguitar.html
Some bassists swear by the Thomastic low tension strings. Personally, I prefer standard tension.
If you buy from an online source you will not get an opportunity for personal inspection. Having said that, I have purchased some very nice instruments via eBay and it has worked out well. Just keep in mind that eBay sourced instruments often have some minor problems. I have the skills to fix most problems so it is not a big risk for me. If you don't have those skills you might end up having to take the eBay bass to a luthier for adjustments or repair. You may still get a great deal but it won't be quite as good had you received one not needing any work.
I don't want to discourage eBay purchases, I buy via eBay. Just be aware that it is possible to buy someone Else's problem.
A used bass with quality parts is the way to get good value.
If possible, get a used bass that includes a hard case. That will be a big savings.
Body - Tone woods are a personal choice, Alder, Ash, Mahogany, Maple, are all good. Each has a different sound so you need to study and gain some experience. Exotic woods are nice too but are probably beyond the budget. Avoid plywood bodies, if you can't get a description of the wood(s) in the body, pass, it might be plywood under a thick layer of finish. Basswood and Poplar are preferred by some players but are too soft, in my opinion. Tonewoods is not a science, some will sound great, others not.
Electronics Quality is important. I like Bartolini P/U's, but if you like the lo-fi vintage sound most will be OK as it is in the higher frequencies that the more expensive P/U's excel.
I think that a pickup in the bridge position is important.
The John East Retro preamp is fantastic for fretless. Essential if you can afford it.
It's all about the neck!!!! If a bass has a good neck, that's a huge plus. The neck needs to be capable of adjusting to almost, or even actually straight. Too much relief equals no Mwah. When you audition a bass be sure to pay particular attention to the neck. The first thing to check is the relief, press a string down at the first position (equivalent to 1st fret) and also and the highest position. The depressed string is a straight line and the fingerboard is usually somewhat curved (relief). In the middle of the span will be an area of maximum gap, this is where you measure the relief. If relief is excessive a couple of things need to be checked: A. Will the tension rod(s) allow this neck to be adjusted for less relief. B. Is there a problem with this neck that caused someone to leave it in this maladjusted condition. I would not pay good money for a bass with excessive relief until it has been adjusted to be almost flat and the neck checks out OK in other respects. Check the straightness of the fingerboard. A precision straightedge is the best tool but your eyes can reveal major problems. Sight down the fingerboard and look for problems such as an uneven curve in the relief, an "S" bend (bad), high spots. If the fingerboard is uncoated minor defects can be corrected but if it's coated then the repair will destroy the coating requiring a re-coat. A properly set-up fretless bass should be easy to play in terms of the amount of mechanical force needed to get a note.
There is a lot of force put on the neck from string tension, narrow and/or slim profile necks tend to acquire/develop more problems than solidly built "hefty" necks. Just because a neck is built strongly does not mean it is not an elegant, fast, and smooth playing neck. Just be very careful to fully inspect any bass with a narrow nut AND a slim profile.
Ergonomics - One thing that might extend the period of time that you remain in love with your new bass is to make sure it conforms to the ergonomic dimensions you prefer.
For me, it's the string spacing at the bridge, and scale length. I like 19mm (3/4") string spacing, and a 889mm (35 inch) scale length vs. 864mm (34 inch) for Fender.
The 19mm string spacing is the standard Fender four string dimension, this spacing enables consistent right hand technique. If you what to slap this is very important. Six string basses are difficult to obtain with this width bridge, however the 90's vintage made in Japan Yamaha TRB 6II has both 19mm spacing and 889mm scale.
The 34 inch (864mm) Fender compatible scale length is the standard of the industry. This is a good scale, I prefer the longer 35 inch (889mm) scale because it has greater string tension which equates to more timbre from the string, so it's about tone. Low B strings especially benefit from the longer scale. In my opinion, short scale basses are not a good thing, although some people love them. Alembic has made the short (or medium) scale instrument one of their special lines.
A third important dimension (and more personal) is the width at the nut. Personally, I like a wide nut. I don't have big hands so it's not totally an ergonomic issue, a wide nut provides more wood at the weakest portion of the neck, transfers vibration better and (IMO) helps with solid tone.
Hang balance is important too, a neck heavy instrument gets old quickly. It is important that you try out your prospective bass with a strap while standing. Take your left hand away from the neck, if the headstock dives for the floor, it would be a good idea to look at other basses.
Before you pay your money, be sure that the ergonomics of the prospective bass will suit you for years. If not, then the quest for a great bass continues.
Strings - Strings for the 34 inch scale are less expensive and easier to obtain. I like a string that provides a complex character with lots of overtones. You can always cut the overtones out with EQ, but they can't be added if they are not there in the first place.
Roundwounds (I like nickle) are great if you have a fingerboard impervious to damage. If the fingerboard is wood I would go with a groundwound, pressurewound, or flats to preserve the wood.
RotoSound 77's , GHS Brite Flats, D'Addario Half Rounds, are all good (IMHO).
LaBella makes a nice flatwound.
Lots of good info on bass strings here: http://www.juststrings.com/electricbassguitar.html
Some bassists swear by the Thomastic low tension strings. Personally, I prefer standard tension.
Last edited by FretLessSince68 on Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
One good note makes my day.
-
KilgoreTrout
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 3:13 am
Do yourself a favour and buy a Vintage Modified Jazz Bass by Squier. Now this bass is something too good to be true. Sounds wonderfully, it's really the MOST bang for the bucks you can ever get. I was biased with Squiers before, now I ain't anymore, trust me. I got an original '66 Jazz Bass and a Marcus Miller. two quite expensive pieces of driftwood if u come to think of it, well this Squier plays BETTER!!! Ok, throw your stones to me, I won't flinch!
Still not a believer? Go in any retail store still having one of those beauties and TRY IT! AND it costs 250 Euros!!!!!!!!!!! It's amazing it even works when you plug it in. AND it has Seymour Duncans!
A wonderful fretless bass for the price of 4 string sets. And the Ebonol fingerboard? Highway 66, guys!
Still not a believer? Go in any retail store still having one of those beauties and TRY IT! AND it costs 250 Euros!!!!!!!!!!! It's amazing it even works when you plug it in. AND it has Seymour Duncans!
A wonderful fretless bass for the price of 4 string sets. And the Ebonol fingerboard? Highway 66, guys!
Hi Fellas,
I wanted one of those Manthing basses, 'cos they look sweeeeeet. Or one of those 500 lb Warwick monsters. But then I figured that for a first fretless, that's too much dough to throw down. Hell, for a 16th fretless that's too much dough to through down. So I got a SX SB-301 Fretless (With Fret Lines) from Kurt at Rondo Music. 109.00. I've been playing fretted for my entire low end career (bass and guitar), so I am no stranger to tinkering, which is a positive thing when you're engaged in the set up of a 109.00 guitar. I kinda like the no name strings - pretty skinny, I go with mediums on my other basses (rounds and flats), tuners are fine, bridge is fine, fretboard is nice and neck is nice too. Alder body is light so it's comfortable to wear for hours. Acoustically sounds nice - the mark of a decent guitar. P pick up is REALLY BIG sounding, J is weaker and sounds weasle-y, like all Js. I'd buy this thing again, it's a sporty little sucker, and just thought I'd mention it to anyone who doesn't want to spend a ton to try this fretless thing out. Most important thing, my supportive spouse remained supportive to the idea of "another one" due to the small price tag. Further, when I eventually sell this thing, I'll still get 100 bucks for it.
Also, FretlessSince68, I really like your posts, keep them coming.
I wanted one of those Manthing basses, 'cos they look sweeeeeet. Or one of those 500 lb Warwick monsters. But then I figured that for a first fretless, that's too much dough to throw down. Hell, for a 16th fretless that's too much dough to through down. So I got a SX SB-301 Fretless (With Fret Lines) from Kurt at Rondo Music. 109.00. I've been playing fretted for my entire low end career (bass and guitar), so I am no stranger to tinkering, which is a positive thing when you're engaged in the set up of a 109.00 guitar. I kinda like the no name strings - pretty skinny, I go with mediums on my other basses (rounds and flats), tuners are fine, bridge is fine, fretboard is nice and neck is nice too. Alder body is light so it's comfortable to wear for hours. Acoustically sounds nice - the mark of a decent guitar. P pick up is REALLY BIG sounding, J is weaker and sounds weasle-y, like all Js. I'd buy this thing again, it's a sporty little sucker, and just thought I'd mention it to anyone who doesn't want to spend a ton to try this fretless thing out. Most important thing, my supportive spouse remained supportive to the idea of "another one" due to the small price tag. Further, when I eventually sell this thing, I'll still get 100 bucks for it.
Also, FretlessSince68, I really like your posts, keep them coming.
-
FretLessSince68
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:29 am
- Location: On an Island, WA, USA
Thanks McFook for the nice words.
For a long time I have been of the opinion that economy Asian basses were not worth playing. Recently a guitar player I know bought a pair of Brice 6 stringers (one fretted, one fretless) off Ebay. I am blown away by the bang for the buck. Good tone, 35" scale, decent P/Us, active electronics, nice neck, real wood body, pretty good hardware, a phenominal value.
These are darn good axes, perhaps some set-up needed but a fantastic value! The playability and sound were fine, not state of the art, but what do you expected for under $300. What you do get is more than $300 in value.
Good enough to gig with, and inexpensive enough to be a non issue if stolen or run over by the road manager. Just go online with the ol' credit card and get another one shipped ASAP.
If I didn't already have some very nice instruments (or got ripped off) I would seriously consider getting one of these Asian basses.
For a long time I have been of the opinion that economy Asian basses were not worth playing. Recently a guitar player I know bought a pair of Brice 6 stringers (one fretted, one fretless) off Ebay. I am blown away by the bang for the buck. Good tone, 35" scale, decent P/Us, active electronics, nice neck, real wood body, pretty good hardware, a phenominal value.
These are darn good axes, perhaps some set-up needed but a fantastic value! The playability and sound were fine, not state of the art, but what do you expected for under $300. What you do get is more than $300 in value.
Good enough to gig with, and inexpensive enough to be a non issue if stolen or run over by the road manager. Just go online with the ol' credit card and get another one shipped ASAP.
If I didn't already have some very nice instruments (or got ripped off) I would seriously consider getting one of these Asian basses.
One good note makes my day.
HACKED P0RN SITE!
Direct access to member zone
http://uniqueadult.com/members/video.php?file=1
username: 692653
password: wanttocome
change the number in the link to get other videos!
Direct access to member zone
http://uniqueadult.com/members/video.php?file=1
username: 692653
password: wanttocome
change the number in the link to get other videos!