Hey everybody, my name is Randy and I'm new to fretless bass. I've read alot of the topics and threads posted and there are alot of good discussions going on here. I am impressed with all the knowledge of fretless basses. I was wondering if some of you could help me understand the world of no frets better. Heres my situation:
Someone I know is selling his fretless, he is not a bass player. He is selling it for $90. That price made me ask him to borrow it and now I'm trying it out for a week or so. It is made by SX which I never heard of. But I'm pretty sure its made in China and I'm pretty sure its a cheap bass. It is a bolt on neck, only 20 frets, 5 strings, two J-style pickups, and passive electronics.
I guess my question is does anyone know of SX basses? Is $100 a fair price for their basses? I like a warm tone to my sound and the bolt on neck is def not a plus for the bass. What do you all think? I also dont like that its only 20 frets (u know what I mean). Would I have to spend alot of money to improve this bass from what it is?
Finally this is my first fretless bass if I were to buy it. Maybe its a good bass to start on..I don't know. But I am a professional musician and expect quality peformance out of my equipment. Maybe some of you more experienced fretless players can tell me if the specs I mentioned do hinder good sound or playing in a bass. Thank you all and I look forward to learning from you.
Peace
Randy
HI from a new member!
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basmster@wam.umd.edu
- Posts:3
- Joined:Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:36 am
- Location:Washington DC
Hi Randy, welcome to the board!
Talking about SX basses, they're very cheap instruments, some of my pupils use them even if I've never seen one fretless...
My suggestion is: if you're looking for a professional instrument better spare money and wait!
The first question is : how many strings, 4-5-6? If you're looking for a good and cheap 4 strings there's the Squier by Fender which is a good bass. Cort Curbow are nice 4 and 5 strings fretless with unlined fingerboards. In the middle range of price Peavey Cirrus and Yamaha TRB are greta 5-6 strings fretless basses.
So that's my opinion: if you want a bass to practice in your study time then the SX could be good, but if you want something that works well also onstage or in the studio better save money and try something else!
Regarding the bolt on neck question, honestly I don't know, I always thought that the sound of the bass is more affected by the wood kind and the electronics, but maybe I'm wrong...
I hope that I've answered to some of your doubts!
Talking about SX basses, they're very cheap instruments, some of my pupils use them even if I've never seen one fretless...
My suggestion is: if you're looking for a professional instrument better spare money and wait!
The first question is : how many strings, 4-5-6? If you're looking for a good and cheap 4 strings there's the Squier by Fender which is a good bass. Cort Curbow are nice 4 and 5 strings fretless with unlined fingerboards. In the middle range of price Peavey Cirrus and Yamaha TRB are greta 5-6 strings fretless basses.
So that's my opinion: if you want a bass to practice in your study time then the SX could be good, but if you want something that works well also onstage or in the studio better save money and try something else!
Regarding the bolt on neck question, honestly I don't know, I always thought that the sound of the bass is more affected by the wood kind and the electronics, but maybe I'm wrong...
I hope that I've answered to some of your doubts!
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basmster@wam.umd.edu
- Posts:3
- Joined:Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:36 am
- Location:Washington DC
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FretLessSince68
- Posts:307
- Joined:Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:29 am
- Location:On an Island, WA, USA
Welcome Randy to the best Fretless Only forum that I know of.
I agree with NickBass regarding your choice of a fretless bass. Save up your money and get the best instrument you can afford.
You may find that fretless becomes your primary focus and main instrument. A dog bass might stifle talent and sour the whole experience, whereas a good instrument will bring your talent out.
Having said that, if all you can afford is an inexpensive SX, and the neck is good, you can probably adjust it to play fairly well. Tone is another matter.
Something you should consider is that a good used bass will usually retain it's value whereas a cheap new bass will return you about 50% when you sell it. In this case since you are considering a cheap used bass that seems priced OK, the main risk is having an inferior instrument that may stifle your talent.
For fretless I prefer bolt-on necks over neck-through because the tone of most bolt-ons is less boomy and lets the low middle frequencies speak better. Mwah is centered about 600 - 700Hz.
In my opinion, the modification potential of a SX bass is questionable because the body and neck may not be contributing much to tone and playability. Similar to the futility of customizing a Daewoo car, you would have a cheap car with expensive modifications that is still a dog.
I agree with NickBass regarding your choice of a fretless bass. Save up your money and get the best instrument you can afford.
You may find that fretless becomes your primary focus and main instrument. A dog bass might stifle talent and sour the whole experience, whereas a good instrument will bring your talent out.
Having said that, if all you can afford is an inexpensive SX, and the neck is good, you can probably adjust it to play fairly well. Tone is another matter.
Something you should consider is that a good used bass will usually retain it's value whereas a cheap new bass will return you about 50% when you sell it. In this case since you are considering a cheap used bass that seems priced OK, the main risk is having an inferior instrument that may stifle your talent.
For fretless I prefer bolt-on necks over neck-through because the tone of most bolt-ons is less boomy and lets the low middle frequencies speak better. Mwah is centered about 600 - 700Hz.
In my opinion, the modification potential of a SX bass is questionable because the body and neck may not be contributing much to tone and playability. Similar to the futility of customizing a Daewoo car, you would have a cheap car with expensive modifications that is still a dog.
One good note makes my day.
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basmster@wam.umd.edu
- Posts:3
- Joined:Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:36 am
- Location:Washington DC
-
FretLessSince68
- Posts:307
- Joined:Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:29 am
- Location:On an Island, WA, USA
Wolfe tone as in dead area, or choking (dampening)? If the neck is straight but still has dead spots I would not invest time and money in the axe.
First, read posts on this site about neck relief adjustment, also known as setup.
Get a good straight edge and put it on the fingerboard (tuned) and determine what curvature your neck has.
A bow is normal and usually can be improved by truss rod adjustmrnt.
Peaks and valleys are not normal and may be an indication of a "S" bend in the neck. "S" bend = BAD news unless minor.
Buzzing at the first position (Eb on D string) is probably a nut string slot cut too low. Take a look at the gap between the string and fingerboard adjacent to the nut. A gap approximately the thickness of a business card is about as low as practical. If the nut slot is cut too low you can build it up with epoxy or super glue and then re-file it. Another trick is to cut a tiny shim from some type of hard paper like substance, fit it in the string slot, tune the string and check if it raises the string enough to stop the buzzing. If not, add more shim until improved. Assuming the neck does not have other problems. Remove string and saturate paper shim (in place) with a small drop of super glue. Refit string, trim off excess shim. If you don't have nut files you can use old strings in conjunction with an abrasive such as toothpaste to smooth the string slot. Be sure to clean it after done.
This kludge fix works pretty well until you get around to cutting a new nut.
Buzzing on the first three positions (equivalent to 1st three frets) may be an indication of a bend at the third position, not good. This can be repaired but you should be prepared to level the fingerboard using luthiers tools.
The straight edge will reveal most problems.
First, read posts on this site about neck relief adjustment, also known as setup.
Get a good straight edge and put it on the fingerboard (tuned) and determine what curvature your neck has.
A bow is normal and usually can be improved by truss rod adjustmrnt.
Peaks and valleys are not normal and may be an indication of a "S" bend in the neck. "S" bend = BAD news unless minor.
Buzzing at the first position (Eb on D string) is probably a nut string slot cut too low. Take a look at the gap between the string and fingerboard adjacent to the nut. A gap approximately the thickness of a business card is about as low as practical. If the nut slot is cut too low you can build it up with epoxy or super glue and then re-file it. Another trick is to cut a tiny shim from some type of hard paper like substance, fit it in the string slot, tune the string and check if it raises the string enough to stop the buzzing. If not, add more shim until improved. Assuming the neck does not have other problems. Remove string and saturate paper shim (in place) with a small drop of super glue. Refit string, trim off excess shim. If you don't have nut files you can use old strings in conjunction with an abrasive such as toothpaste to smooth the string slot. Be sure to clean it after done.
This kludge fix works pretty well until you get around to cutting a new nut.
Buzzing on the first three positions (equivalent to 1st three frets) may be an indication of a bend at the third position, not good. This can be repaired but you should be prepared to level the fingerboard using luthiers tools.
The straight edge will reveal most problems.
One good note makes my day.
